Make: Cartier
Model: Tank Must LM
Reference: 590005
Year: Approximately 1990
Movement: Quartz
Box and papers: Box & Watch Register Certificate
Case: 24x30mm (large model) silver, gold-plated
Dial: Red lacquer
Bracelet/Strap: New leather strap
Condition: Very good, neo-vintage
Serviced: 2026
Warranty: 6 month RHW warranty
Deep Red. Pure Cartier. Rare by Nature
The Iconic Legacy
Few designs are as enduring as the Cartier Tank.
Created in 1917, the Tank took inspiration from the clean lines of military tanks viewed from above, resulting in a watch defined by symmetry, balance and architectural simplicity. It quickly became one of the most recognisable watch designs ever created.
In the 1970s, Cartier introduced the Tank Must line, opening the design to a wider audience while maintaining the essence of the original. Vermeil cases, sterling silver plated in gold, allowed Cartier to offer the same iconic look with a different approach to materials.
This example, reference 59005 from circa 1990, represents one of the most distinctive executions of the Tank Must.
The red lacquer dial changes everything.
Why You’ll Love It
● Striking red lacquer dial that transforms the classic Tank design
● One of the rarest and most sought after Tank Must variations
● Large case size that wears with real presence on the wrist
● Vermeil construction offering the look of gold with vintage character
● A design that sits somewhere between watch and jewellery
● A true vintage Cartier with individuality rarely seen today
● Exceptional value for such a rare and collectible configuration
The dial is what makes this watch.
Deep, rich and almost liquid in appearance, the red lacquer finish gives the Tank a completely different personality. It moves away from traditional Roman numeral layouts and becomes something far more expressive and artistic.
This is not a subtle variation. It is one of the boldest and rarest Tank Must designs ever produced.
Iconic Status
A bold interpretation of one of the most iconic designs ever created.
The Cartier Tank has been worn by some of the most influential figures in history. From Muhammad Ali to Andy Warhol, it became a symbol of culture, creativity and individuality.
Warhol famously wore a Tank without even setting the time, seeing it purely as an object of design rather than function. That mindset perfectly reflects pieces like this.
The Tank Must line took that philosophy further. By introducing bold dial colours and unconventional designs, Cartier allowed the Tank to become more expressive and personal.
The red lacquer dial versions remain among the rarest of all, representing a moment when Cartier pushed the boundaries of its most classic design.
Ready to Make It Yours?
Visit us at our home inside Martin & Martin, 30 High Street, St Peter Port, Guernsey.
This Cartier Tank Must Vermeil reference 59005 from circa 1990 features the rare red lacquer dial and is supplied with its original Cartier box.
Price £2,750.
● PayPal or PayPal guest checkout online, allowing you to use your PayPal account or any major debit or credit card
● Bank transfers
● Secure email payment links
● Apple Pay and all major debit and credit cards accepted in store
● In person card payments available in store and by private appointment
● Book a private appointment via our website
Rare, expressive and unmistakably Cartier.
Make: Cartier
Model: Tank Must LM
Reference: 590005
Year: Approximately 1990
Movement: Quartz
Box and papers: Box & Watch Register Certificate
Case: 24x30mm (large model) silver, gold-plated
Dial: Red lacquer
Bracelet/Strap: New leather strap
Condition: Very good, neo-vintage
Serviced: 2026
Warranty: 6 month RHW warranty
Deep Red. Pure Cartier. Rare by Nature
The Iconic Legacy
Few designs are as enduring as the Cartier Tank.
Created in 1917, the Tank took inspiration from the clean lines of military tanks viewed from above, resulting in a watch defined by symmetry, balance and architectural simplicity. It quickly became one of the most recognisable watch designs ever created.
In the 1970s, Cartier introduced the Tank Must line, opening the design to a wider audience while maintaining the essence of the original. Vermeil cases, sterling silver plated in gold, allowed Cartier to offer the same iconic look with a different approach to materials.
This example, reference 59005 from circa 1990, represents one of the most distinctive executions of the Tank Must.
The red lacquer dial changes everything.
Why You’ll Love It
● Striking red lacquer dial that transforms the classic Tank design
● One of the rarest and most sought after Tank Must variations
● Large case size that wears with real presence on the wrist
● Vermeil construction offering the look of gold with vintage character
● A design that sits somewhere between watch and jewellery
● A true vintage Cartier with individuality rarely seen today
● Exceptional value for such a rare and collectible configuration
The dial is what makes this watch.
Deep, rich and almost liquid in appearance, the red lacquer finish gives the Tank a completely different personality. It moves away from traditional Roman numeral layouts and becomes something far more expressive and artistic.
This is not a subtle variation. It is one of the boldest and rarest Tank Must designs ever produced.
Iconic Status
A bold interpretation of one of the most iconic designs ever created.
The Cartier Tank has been worn by some of the most influential figures in history. From Muhammad Ali to Andy Warhol, it became a symbol of culture, creativity and individuality.
Warhol famously wore a Tank without even setting the time, seeing it purely as an object of design rather than function. That mindset perfectly reflects pieces like this.
The Tank Must line took that philosophy further. By introducing bold dial colours and unconventional designs, Cartier allowed the Tank to become more expressive and personal.
The red lacquer dial versions remain among the rarest of all, representing a moment when Cartier pushed the boundaries of its most classic design.
Ready to Make It Yours?
Visit us at our home inside Martin & Martin, 30 High Street, St Peter Port, Guernsey.
This Cartier Tank Must Vermeil reference 59005 from circa 1990 features the rare red lacquer dial and is supplied with its original Cartier box.
Price £2,750.
● PayPal or PayPal guest checkout online, allowing you to use your PayPal account or any major debit or credit card
● Bank transfers
● Secure email payment links
● Apple Pay and all major debit and credit cards accepted in store
● In person card payments available in store and by private appointment
● Book a private appointment via our website
Rare, expressive and unmistakably Cartier.
